'This Soho old-timer is rammed'

In her Guardian review, Marina O'Loughlin looks at why this pushing-50 Soho spot stays busy year after year. She notes its Umbrian focus, adopted long before other places narrowed in on a single region, and a menu that changes twice daily. Her verdict: "No fireworks, no dishes created for social media, no mouthy chefs — no wonder it is such a success."